Gale's Gallery XI: Experimenting With Alcohol Inks

Hello fellow "art enthusiasts" (a term I use for folks who are between a crafter and full-on artist),

This post has taken forever to get together on what should be a very simple technique.  I'm not exactly inexperienced either...  I learned that everything you read on the internet isn't correct.  Really?

Alcohol inks on glazed tile coasters-- the two on the right are mistakes because I accidentally splattered rubbing alcohol and not the alcohol blending solution.  However, it might be the look one is wanting.  Experiment!

The process should be quick, easy, cheap, fun and foolproof.  After all my attempts, it's none of the above until you get it right!  I have done "the dirty work" and the instant gratification I must have can now be yours...  I've pieced together several folks' techniques and will show you the boo-boos as well as the successes.

All you need are alcohol inks and alcohol blending solution (I used Adirondack brand), some white glazed tiles (Lowe's has them for 14 cents), a water-based polyurethane sealer (if you can find it in a can-go for it!), and some sticky felt pads (for feet to protect your furniture if you're using these as coasters.)

Note:  The inks dry fairly quickly.  You will have different effects blending dry and wet inks.  Wear junk clothes and cover your work surface.  Do the sealing in a well-ventilated area.

 Be careful about which and how many colors you use or you will wind up with something like the upper right.  The blending solution was splashed on the lower right.

I'm not going to show step-by-steps because there are other sites for that after you know my "corrections."

1.  Wipe off tile.
2.  Brush a thin coating (you may want more) of the blending solution thoroughly on the top of the tile.
3.  Randomly drop complimentary colors of 3 or less inks.  (Too many will make a muddy brown.  The bright side is any mistake is easily wiped off and you can start over et nauseam!  Great for those of us who hate to waste supplies!)
4.  Experiment with adding drops within drops or blending solution drops or even splatter them!
5.  Allow to dry completely--overnight is good.  Where the inks puddle, it takes some time to dry.
6.  Be sure to color the sides, either with the inks or I used copic markers which are alcohol-based.
7.  Gently, and with a soft brush well-dipped in the poly, coat the surface and either let dry and repeat at least a couple times or cheat like me and after the first coat, switch to spray poly (my spray isn't water-based,  so make sure that first coat is really covering the tile well.)  Usually, you are told to use thin coats of poly, but you really can't or accidents happen.
8.  Put the felt feet on and enjoy!

Sealing mistakes on bottom row:  Left:  On my second coat of polyurethane, I didn't have a liberal amount on my brush and it drug around the first coat causing the crazing.   Right:  Same issue with this tile, except that on the first coat I needed more poly on brush as well.  It streaked the ink.  I decided to live with that, then on the second coat I still didn't have enough poly.  This is why I decided to brush the first layer of poly (water-based) and spray the second even though my spray was apparently alcohol based.  

Closer view of sealing errors...

All in all a fun, serendipitous project.  Let me know if you have any questions!

Until next time,

Gale

My Two Cents On Buying Appliances- Part One

Since I've sold an appliance or two (okay, around 1.5M dollars worth) I thought I'd share some of my thoughts to make it easier for you to choose your next appliances.  Since I like to keep my posts brief, I am dividing this into parts.

General guidelines:  Get the features you want/need.  Don't get hung up on brands because there isn't a "best or worst," but a mix of this within their product lines.  It's fine to have all of your pieces the same brand, but it's not necessary for it to still look good.  I try to pick complimentary handles and stainless finishes.  Get a dishwasher and microwave without a handle to make it easier if you're mixing.

There are three brands of appliances in my kitchen and I think it looks fine.

Prices may seem to vary, but big box stores are very competitive, so it's best for you to choose the local store with the best service/knowledgeable staff/selection.  Most stores price-match other brick & mortars and manufacturer's run promos concurrently in all stores (i.e.,  May is for Maytag promo this month.)  Don't be in a hurry (unless your ice cream is melting...)  You should be able to get free delivery, haul away and hook-up of electric non built-in appliances.  As for reviews, store reviews are usually slanted toward folks that are angry (if I'm satisfied, I don't write in, but if I'm mad I might) or ones that have been hounded to review.  Also, we don't know if they are even using the product right.  "Consumer Reports" is a good start, but not the final word either.  Check out several other review places if that's important to you.

Stainless, black or white are the current available colors.  If you need almond, the selection is getting smaller by the day.  Black, in my opinion, is as hard or harder to keep clean than stainless.  Any white appliances with plastic parts like handles will yellow over time due to UV rays.  Some products to try for cleaning stainless include "Cerama-bryte for Stainless, " "Perfect Glass" and for some stuck on messes try a citrus mist that will be in the air freshener section.  (The smell is strong, so use with good ventilation.)

Often, a higher quality item on sale isn't much more than a cheap one.  It will have more features and likely last longer, so it's worth the difference.  The life span nowadays of a fridge with ice/water in the door is 8-10 years.  No, that isn't the same as your old one that's still running at 25 in the garage... there are more electronics to fail and sadly, they perhaps aren't made as sturdily.  A washer or dishwasher goes about the same time, while dryers/microwaves can hang on longer.

Refrigerators:  For Pete's sake (and mine) measure the spot where it goes and not your old fridge!  That does me no good when I'm trying to find one that will fit--especially when you try to show me with your fingers how much extra space there is around the current fridge.  I need the height and width especially, but if depth is important to you, measure that too.  Counter-depth fridges have more of a built-in look, but they are more expensive and smaller than standard depth ones.  A standard depth fridge will generally stick out 6-7" from you cabinet/counter top and isn't usually an issue unless you have a galley kitchen or an island across from it.  Also, measure your doorways so we can get it in your house.  Don't expect the delivery guys to figure it out when they get there as it's not their problem, it's yours and may mean we bring it back to the store until you fix the issue.

For me, ice makers in the door of side-by-sides are okay because it's in the freezer side, but in french door fridges it's in refrigerator portion and along with that being warmer, it is opened much more than a freezer.  Therefore, there's a chance for ice to melt slightly and clump, especially since it's near the exterior.  Even though it takes space, it's probably better to have the ice maker back inside the cabinet. These often can hold more ice anyway.

Well, that's enough for now... Next time we'll talk about ranges, microwaves and built-in types of these.  Feel free to ask me questions in the comment section and I will help if I can!

Happy Derby Day and Cinco de Mayo!

Gale